All About Additives: What’s In Your Cognac? Part I

Open up your favorite magazine, turn on the TV, or look at the ads on a website you frequently visit. Chances are you’ll eventually see a food or beverage product being advertised that says something along the lines of “zero sugar,” “all natural,” or even “no artificial flavors or additives.” Over the last several decades, the global health craze has drilled into our heads that many things are bad for us. Sugar is the enemy. Additives and preservatives must be avoided. Organic is the best. While these statements certainly sound appealing and have a lot of science to back them up, it has also caused many people to become hypervigilant. We blindly equate products that use these “inferior” components as being not as good as others who don’t contain them.

While food and spirits differ greatly, they share negative connotations when it comes to sugar and artificial additives. Producers around the world follow regulations that set strict—or sometimes less strict—guidelines about what can and cannot be added. For example, distillers cannot add anything to straight bourbon except water, and rum producers in Jamaica cannot add sugar. Some argue that the best way to appreciate a spirit is to drink it in its purest form. But the world doesn’t always make that simple. This brings us to our topic: additives.

People might be surprised to learn that cognac, despite its meticulous regulations, doesn’t consist solely of distilled grape wine aged in barrels. Producers can legally add four components to cognac: water, sugar, caramel, and a wood flavoring called boisé.

Sugar, caramel, and flavoring—does that sound bad? It depends on who you ask. Some consumers might avoid them, while Master Blenders embrace them as part of their craft. Most brands, from large producers to small ones, use some combination of these additives. If you’ve ever enjoyed a glass of cognac, you’ve probably consumed one or more of them. Producers have incorporated these additives for over 150 years.

When producers use additives properly, these small additions can help balance the flavors in a bottle. Just like crafting a cocktail or cooking dinner, the ingredients need to harmonize to let the final product shine. Fruit is very temperamental. Each year, vines produce slightly different grapes. Acid levels shift, soil composition varies, and weather impacts the fruit, creating subtle changes in aroma and flavor. Many producers rely on additives to maintain a consistent flavor profile and appearance. Imagine pouring a glass of your favorite brand only to have it taste different from the last one—you want reliability. This isn’t about cutting corners; it’s about consistency and preserving house style.

In this two-part series, we’re going to take a closer look at these additives used in cognac production. Let’s get into it and demystify these four ingredients to see what they’re all about.

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Water

Let’s start with the easiest additive: water. Like many spirits, producers can add water to cognac before bottling to reach the desired proof. Cognac must bottle at a minimum of 40% ABV (80 proof). When the eau-de-vie comes off the still, it can measure around 70% ABV (140 proof). As it ages in barrels, the proof gradually drops because some alcohol evaporates into the air—a phenomenon called the Angels’ Share. It could take decades for the eau-de-vie to naturally reach the target proof. Since most house-standard VS or VSOP bottles stay at 40% ABV, producers rely on water to adjust it.

But they don’t just dump water into barrels after aging. Many producers dilute the aging eau-de-vie gradually over time, adding water little by little directly into the barrels to avoid overwhelming the spirit. The Cellar Master carefully monitors this process. Some producers also dilute right after distillation, before aging begins. Regardless of the method, they usually add a final amount of water during blending and marrying. The marrying process allows the cognac to rest and fully integrate before bottling.

Producers use distilled or reverse osmosis water to keep it as neutral as possible. Even though water should be neutral in its base state, minerals and other elements can vary, so treating it ensures it doesn’t introduce off flavors. Its only role is to adjust the proof.

For an extra twist, producers can use petites eaux (“little water” in French) instead of, or in combination with, plain water. Petites eaux sit in an empty, used cognac barrel, where they slowly extract leftover alcohol from the barrel staves. Nicholas Faith’s Cognac: The Story of the World’s Greatest Brandy notes that petites eaux can reach around 20% ABV after several months, revealing how much alcohol remains in the wood. Producers use petites eaux as a slower way to reduce proof, and it can subtly add aroma and flavor. While not very common, it’s an interesting technique worth noting.

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Sugar

Another allowed additive in cognac production is sugar. The word “sugar” often carries negative connotations, which is understandable. Over the years, we’ve learned to view sugar differently. Historically, sugar was a luxury, usually reserved for the wealthy. Today, our relationship with sugar in food and drinks has shifted, and we often consume it in far greater quantities than in the past.

Let’s set aside preconceived notions and look at the facts. Cognac producers can only add a small amount of sugar. AOC rules limit all additives (except water) to 4% by volume, or about 16g per liter. That total can include sugar, caramel, and boisé, but the combined amount cannot exceed 4%. In a 750ml bottle, roughly 30ml (1 ounce) can be additives. Could a producer make that all sugar? Yes, but most don’t—most brands use far less than the maximum.

Producers add sugar in the form of natural syrups, either from cane or beet sugar, with some preferring brown cane sugar. They add no chemical preservatives or lab-created ingredients—just pure sugar and water.

Sugar primarily smooths the finish and softens minor harsh edges in the distillate, especially when a blend contains a larger proportion of younger eaux-de-vie. VS and VSOP bottles often include sugar, while older blends rarely need it because they’ve fully developed. Even at the maximum, sugar doesn’t significantly alter the flavor; it only gives the impression of sweetness—a subtle physiological effect. Most brands use far less than the limit, so claims that producers artificially sweeten cognac are misleading.

For a Master Blender, sugar plays a key role in maintaining consistency. Cognac is all about taste and experience. When fruit can vary from season to season, sometimes alteration is needed. Sugar allows the blender to make slight adjustments, keeping your favorite brand tasting the same year after year. One year your VSOP might have 2g/liter of sugar, the next only 1g/liter, yet to your palate it tastes identical. That consistency is the goal, and it shows the Master Blender has done their job.

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In the next post, we’ll discuss the other two legally allowed additives in caramel and boisé. Make sure you don’t miss it by subscribing to the Cognac Reverie blog all the way at the bottom of this page.